Celebrate Canadian Independent Bookstore Day

Photo: Author (one of my several overcrowded book cases)

Today, April 26, is Canadian Independent Bookstore Day (CIBD). Independent bookstores in all countries, especially in a country as geographically dispersed as Canada, form a community based network allowing readers of all ages to access the wonder of the written word, often beautifully illustrated. Whether you are Tofino, Whistler, or Victoria BC, Whitehorse in the Yukon, downtown Toronto, Calgary, Winnipeg or Montreal, Nova Scotia’s south shore or Tors Cove, NL, and everywhere else in between, there is an independent bookstore for you offering everything from novels, cookbooks, children’s stories, history, travel…and so on. Some even have copies of my book, In Defence of Copyright! Of course, there is also Amazon and, in Canada, Indigo, but the uniqueness of each independent bookstore is what I like. Wherever I go, I always seek one out. It can tell you a lot about the town you are visiting. If you want to find the closest independent bookstore, just type in the postal code of wherever you are in Canada (here), and you will get a full listing.

Indie bookstores are facing many challenges these days, not the least of which is the ongoing tariff war launched by the Trump Administration against the world, including islands populated exclusively by penguins. Given the close economic integration between Canada and the US, it is not surprising that Canadian bookstores import a fair amount of their stock from the US. In fact, even books by Canadian authors are often either printed, or stored and distributed from US locations because of economics. The major publishing houses have concentrated their North American distribution hubs in the US. More that 80% of books published in Canada are published by foreign-owned firms (not all American). For example, Penguin Random House is owned by Bertelsmann, a German conglomerate. Macmillan is also German owned; Harper Collins and Simon & Schuster are US owned.

Most Canadian publishers and printers operate on a small scale. Sutherland House, an Indie Canadian publisher, reports that in 2024, sales by Canadian owned publishers totalled $56 million, or just 5% of the Canadian market. However, in Quebec it is a different story as Canadian owned French language publishers have 54% of the market. Considering that Quebec has about a quarter of Canada’s population and economic activity, this suggests that the sales of Canadian published works in the rest of Canada must be well below five percent.

While Canadian authors and publishers (so called “CanLit”) are important to independent bookstores in Canada (and Indie bookstores play an important part in the promotion of local authors and CanLit), their bread and butter is still any book that customers are prepared to buy, regardless of the nationality of the author, the genre, or where it is published. When Donald Trump invoked the 1970s-era International Emergency Economic Powers Act (IEEPA) as the pretext to impose 25% tariffs on Canadian (and Mexican) products exported to the United States, regardless of commitments the US had made to both countries under the USMCA (the “new NAFTA”), Canadian publishers were delighted to find out that the IEEPA had a carve out for “information or informational materials”. This included “publications”, as I wrote about here. (Donald Trump’s Tariff Threats: Their Potential Impact on Canada’s Cultural Industries). Not that many Canadian publishers ship to the US, but some, including specialized printers, do so. As I noted above, it’s an integrated North American market.

But if the IEEPA exception provided a tariff respite with respect to the export of Canadian published materials to the US, it is the threat of Canadian counter-tariffs on US products coming into Canada that is of greatest concern to Canadian independent booksellers. The addition of a 25% counter-tariff on their book imports from the US would undermine profit margins and require a price increase, further threatening sales at an economically challenging time for most consumers. Happily, so far, the threat of Canadian counter tariffs has been suspended after Donald Trump blinked and allowed all Canadian (and Mexican) products that qualify for USMCA/CUSMA coverage to continue to be tariff exempt, as per the terms of the Agreement.

This exemption was supposed to end on April 2, but as is usual with Trump, he changed his mind at the last minute. The relief from US import duties (at least insofar as USMCA/CUSMA compliant products are concerned, except for steel and aluminum) has been extended without a fixed end date, but as with so much concerning Donald Trump it could be ended on a whim. If that happens, Canada will move to activate the counter tariffs it was preparing to impose on April 2. Books were on that list, although the Canadian Federation of Independent Booksellers and Indigo Books joined hands to lobby against the inclusion of books as part of Canada’s retaliation. It is not just bookstores that have warned against collateral damage to small, independent Canadian business from the imposition of counter tariffs on books imported from the US, but also librarians. The Ottawa Public Library estimated that the imposition of Canadian tariffs could result in it acquiring 33,000 fewer items for its collection.

The booksellers are from being out of the woods yet. They might get an exemption or a duty remission if Canada imposes tariffs. Then again, Canada might not impose tariffs, as it depends on what actions Donald Trump takes. Even if the book trade remains tariff free, the forecast recession in both Canada, the US, and elsewhere as a result of Trump’s unilateral tariff barriers is likely to hurt bookstores, as for most consumers buying a book is a discretionary purchase.

Let’s hope the worst doesn’t happen and that, at the end of the day, some reason and economic logic will prevail. In the meantime, if you haven’t seen it, I recommend a blog I wrote earlier this month on my visit to one of the most magical bookstores in the world, Livraria Lello, in Porto, Portugal.

(c) Hugh Stephens, 2025.

Here is the link to The Resilience of Independent Bookstores (My Visit to Livraria Lello, Porto)

Obituaries and Copyright: If You Publish an Obituary in the Globe and Mail (and many other papers), Be Prepared for Legacy.com and its Upsell Business Model

Image: Shutterstock.com

After the recent death of a dear friend, I was watching for the publication of his obituary to mark the final chapter. His distinguished professional and post-professional career certainly merited it, and a couple of weeks after his passing I was pleased to spot a full column in the printed edition of Globe and Mail, the paper that could arguably be called English Canada’s journal of record. An obituary in the Globe is a fitting tribute to anyone. To my surprise, when I went to look at the online version, first logging into my digital subscription to the Globe, I was taken to another website, Legacy.com. I didn’t ask to be taken there, it just happened.

The obituary was there, verbatim as printed in the Globe, with the same information and photo, but with some additional options. I could purchase a memorial tree, in fact I could purchase a whole grove of 100 memorial trees. I could order various memorial floral offerings, which it appears are actually delivered by an outfit called Blooms Today. I could also buy a sympathy card and have it shipped to me. There may be other things that I could also buy as there is a handy 1-888 number, but I didn’t pursue it. All this is linked back to the Globe and Mail’s listings of obituaries via a button on Legacy’s home page but even though you appear to be visiting the Globe site, there is a header that says, “You are now on Legacy.com. Your site use is governed by their Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy. Any purchases are with Legacy.com. Learn More”. “Learn More” takes you to Legacy’s Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policies.

So, just who is Legacy.com? Legacy is a Chicago based company that has been around for about a quarter of a century. It dominates the online obituary business and has numerous press affiliates. Customers can list their obit on Legacy, which can then help them to have it published in any of its 2600 affiliate publications in the US, driving business to papers all over the country. In Canada, Legacy has affiliations with almost 90 publications (it is hard to keep the record accurate because they keep going out of business!) ranging from major dailies like the Globe and Mail and Toronto Star to tiny weeklies in small communities. PostMedia, which operates dailies in most major Canadian cities is not an affiliate. This reference service helps sustain the newspaper business, since printing obituaries is one of the few forms of “advertising” where the printed media still plays a reasonably prominent role. Heaven knows, the industry needs all the help it can get to attract sources of revenue.

Legacy apparently does not charge newspapers for its referral service but gets a cut of the amount paid for printing the obituary. If the obituary has initially been placed in the newspaper, and subsequently posted on Legacy.com, the website gets the obituary content without charge but kicks back to the paper of record a percentage of the amount it generates from merchandise it “upsells” to those who visit the site. The bereaved family has paid for the obituary but it becomes fodder for peddling memorial products and services. However, this is a good deal for both parties, the website and the newspaper. Legacy gets more content against which it can sell the memorial paraphernalia listed on its website, while the newspaper gets some revenue from the merchandise sales and doesn’t have to pay to maintain the website or to post its obituaries online. And I guess even the bereaved family is not all that fussed because the obituary gets wider circulation, although they have paid extra for this additional exposure.

This is all laid out in the “Affiliate Partnership Overview” at sales.legacy.com. This is how the revenue model works;

“Newspaper increases price of death notice for enhanced online product.

Newspaper receives percentage of gross revenue from add-on product sales administered online by Legacy.com and advertising sales.

Newspaper retains all page views and owns all advertising inventory within in the header and footer on the co-branded site.”

When you pay for an obituary in the Globe or any of the other newspapers with whom Legacy.com has an affiliation agreement, you pay extra for the online listing (in the case of the Globe, the extra charge is $60, which is minor compared with the cost of printing most obituaries). As noted above, the Globe or other affiliate gets a kickback from the add-on product sales generated from friends and relatives of the deceased who visit the site.

None of this is illegal and the information about how it works is easily found on the internet. In the past I have written about dodgy obituary websites that either copy obituaries without authorization, or do quick rewrites of posted obituaries, allegedly copying only the “basic facts” of the deceased person’s life (which in their haste they sometimes get wrong) in order to avoid charges of copyright infringement. In both cases, the end game is to monetize the content, as Legacy.com is doing, but Legacy has made it legal by signing affiliate and revenue-sharing agreements with the newspapers publishing the obituaries.

Obituaries are considered copyrighted works. Even though Legacy.com offers templates to write obituaries and no doubt some are now written with the use of AI, most obituaries are thoughtfully composed pieces reflecting the deceased person’s achievements and character, sometimes self written before death or more frequently composed by a loved one. In either case, they are creative works and are protected by copyright law, although the facts, such as a deceased person’s date of birth or death, name of spouse, number of children, etc. cannot be protected. The website that was copying obituaries without authorization, known as Afterlife, was shut down and fined on the basis of copyright infringement. If a carefully written obituary is a copyrighted work, and if you wrote the obituary and thus legally hold the copyright, how is it that the Globe or other outlets can in effect resell or license your copyrighted work to Legacy.com? Simple. It is because you, the author, agreed to it.

When placing an obituary in the Globe, the person submitting it is presented with the following;

“By submitting an obituary, you agree to The Globe and Mail’s Terms and Conditions and Advertising Terms and Conditions (Print and Digital) as well as for online obituaries, Legacy.com’s Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.”

If you take the time to wade through all that you will find that in the Globe’s Advertising Terms there is a clause (paragraph 20) that says that any advertising published in the paper may, at the Globe’s discretion, be published, displayed, retained and archived by the paper and anyone authorized by the Globe (including by any form of licence), as many times as the Publisher and those authorized by Publisher so wish, including anything in print, electronic and other form. I hadn’t thought of an obituary as advertising, but insofar as it involves purchasing space in a newspaper to disseminate information, I guess that is exactly what it is. In any event, by placing an obit you are subject to the Globe’s advertising code. The wording in Para 20 that a consumer is required to accept if they want their obituary to be published clearly allows the Globe to provide your content to Legacy.com

As for Legacy, this is almost no limit as to what they can do with an obituary provided to it through one of its affiliates. By using their platform, a person submitting an obituary is granting Legacy. Com;  

a royalty-free, perpetual, irrevocable, non-exclusive right and license to use, copy, modify, display, archive, store, publish, transmit, perform, distribute, reproduce and create derivative works from all Material (provided to) Legacy.com in any form, media, software or technology of any kind now existing or developed in the future. You grant all rights described in this paragraph in consideration of your use of the Services without the need for additional compensation of any sort to you.

(Legacy.com Terms of Use 3. (c).) 

Note that Legacy does not own the content, the rights holder does, but it has been granted a licence to do all of the above.

The person submitting the obituary also must certify that they are the author of the content or that the content is not protected by copyright law, or that they have express permission from the copyright owner to post the content.

All this just because you wanted to print Grandpa’s obituary in the Globe!

Can you opt out of having the obituary published on Legacy and restrict it to just the print edition? Yes, you can (at least insofar as the Globe is concerned; I don’t know about other affiliates). Additionally, the Globe informed me that if I still wanted an obituary to be online, but without the ads, they would ask Legacy to remove any third party advertising for trees, flowers, etc., from the notice. (I presume if the Globe asks, Legacy will comply). While this is helpful in ultimately putting the decision in the hands of the person placing the obituary, (the so-called “advertiser”), the default is for the obituary to be posted on Legacy.com, with ads.

To its credit, the Globe does disclose that this will happen;

The Globe and Mail’s online obituary is powered by Legacy.com, and may include services from third party suppliers such as flowers, memorial trees and charities.”

Thus no-one can say that they didn’t know this was happening, although they may not have particularly focused on it. Perhaps they don’t object. One can also argue that Legacy provides an additional service and that no one is obliged to purchase any of the add-ons found on the website. In return for the opportunity to sell against your loved one’s obituary, Legacy provides a permanent (insofar as anything is “permanent”), searchable database of obituaries. Maybe that is the way to look at it. Death is a part of life and those who work in the “death business” perform an essential service (in some cases) or a desired service in others. So, why do I find it offensive that the Globe has monetized the memory of my friend?

Maybe I am just old fashioned but it seems to me there are certain conventions surrounding the end of life business, although these are probably changing. Dreary funerals are replaced by more joyous celebrations of life. Yet it still seems somehow inappropriate to openly market memorial products off the back of an obituary. I note that the Globe’s obituary page in its printed edition contains no ads, and it’s not as if there is not space. There is space for ads but the only ones that appear are fillers promoting the Globe’s own obituary services (“Precious memories”, “In your thoughts”, etc). At the end of the day, remember that the obituary you have written for someone is your creative, copyrighted work, and you have every right to determine how it is used. If you want it up on the web “in perpetuity” be prepared for the compromise of having it supported through e-commerce.

As much as I am grumbling, the important thing is that the obituary of my friend, a fitting tribute, was published and seen. And maybe a few memorial trees even got planted, which I guess is not a bad thing.

© Hugh Stephens 2025. All Rights Reserved.

The US National Trade Estimates (NTE), Trump’s “Reciprocal” Tariffs and IP/Cultural Industries

Image: Shutterstock

On so-called “Liberation Day”, April 2, a day that, to echo FDR, will live in infamy, (the day the world trading system was turned upside down and the US shot itself in the foot, or head) Donald Trump unveiled a limited list of “reciprocal” tariffs in a Rose Garden game show format. Like a magician revealing a secret, he unveiled a chart announcing imposition of minimum 10% “reciprocal” tariffs on a variety of transgressors, like the UK even though it buys more from the US than it sells to it, or Singapore which is an open port and has no tariff import barriers at all, or even the Heard and Macdonald Islands, a remote Antarctic territory of Australia populated exclusively by penguins. The penguins weren’t on the shorter Rose Garden chart but were included in the full list published by the White House on Truth Social (that authoritative channel). The Truth Social list included the Svalbard and Jan Mayen Islands near the Arctic Circle (population 2500, many of them scientists at research stations), the British Indian Ocean Territory, a jurisdiction populated entirely by the US military with some token Brits to maintain the fig-leaf of British sovereignty, and Norfolk Island, population 1500, a remote island between Australia and New Zealand. Some countries, like the small African kingdom of Lesotho or the French North Atlantic islands of St. Pierre et Miquelon (population 5000) didn’t get off so lightly, being assessed at 50%, half their supposed transgression rate of 99%. St. Pierre’s sin was that someone shipped some fish to the US whereas the French territory neglected to purchase the same volume of US goods. I guess they don’t need Dodge Ram or Chevy Silverado trucks there.

When the White House finally published the official list they cleaned up some of the ridiculous anomalies initially announced (the penguins were gone), but the only official response from the Office of the US Trade Representative (USTR) was to try to explain how the “reciprocal” tariffs were calculated. Prior to the announcement, trade observers assumed USTR would actually measure the level of tariffs imposed on US goods by other countries, possibly “tarrifying” other alleged non-tariff barriers, like Value Added Taxes, “currency manipulation”, cultural support policies, weak IP regimes, or any other perceived or real grievance from US industries. This list of “problematic” measures is released annually in the National Trade Estimates (NTE) document assembled and published by USTR. This year it was released on March 31, a couple of days before “Liberation Day” leading to speculation that it would provide the backstopping for the calculation of tariff reciprocity. However, no measures on the lengthy list of transgressions were actually included or used in making the “reciprocal” tariff calculations. Instead USTR published the following impressive looking formula to explain how the “reciprocal” tariffs were calculated. It makes Einstein’s E=mc² look simple.

What this actually means, however, is that the reciprocal punishment was based exclusively on whether the US ran a trade deficit with another country (except where there was no deficit, as in the case of the UK and Argentina, where countries got nailed with the minimum 10% tariff anyway.) The actual formula represents the 2024 US trade deficit in goods with a given country, divided by the total quantity of US imports from that country. So for example if Country X grows a lot of bananas very efficiently and exports them to the US, which doesn’t grow bananas (as far as I know), and if Country X doesn’t import the same value in US goods as it exports in bananas, it will get nailed with a “reciprocal” tariff of at least 10%, probably more, even if it doesn’t apply tariffs to US imports. Since Country X is a remote, relatively poor country, the likelihood of it being able to import substantial amounts of US goods is low. Never mind that its country is dominated by US service providers, such as delivery services, content streaming services and banks. Services don’t count in the Trump Administrations calculations.

As long as Country X or others like it can’t find a way to buy US products (the leading US exports are petroleum and gas, aircraft and aircraft parts, pharmaceuticals, autos, and chemicals, none of which a poor country like Country X has much need for), their banana exports to the US will be subjected to tariffs. This will increase the price of bananas for US consumers, and possibly lead to reduced imports, putting some banana farmers in Country X out of business thus making them even less likely to buy US products. Who thought this was a good idea? (You know who). As the US National Tax Foundation pointed out, the calculations are nonsense and will punish mutually beneficial trade. Indeed, the sloppiness and amateurish way in which they were calculated and announced seems to reflect the typical modus operandi of this Administration. Rush things to social media without fact checking or even applying a commonsense test, like checking for penguins. It makes USTR look downright foolish.

While some countries were dropped when the official list was published, a couple were never put on that list. Russia was one, since there is almost no bilateral trade post-sanctions; Canada and Mexico were two other significant exceptions. That is because they had already been the recipients of the Trump tariff treatment earlier, as I have written about here, with the imposition of 25% US tariffs (which were subsequently suspended for products that qualify for tariff-free treatment under the USMCA/CUSMA, except for steel and aluminum). Trump used the same loophole, the “national emergency” provisions of the International Emergency Economic Powers Act (IEEPA) to impose tariffs on Canada and Mexico as he used for the “reciprocal” tariffs on most of the rest of the world. This legislation allows the President to deal with “unusual and extraordinary threats” to the national security of the United States.

Trump invoked the supposed flow of fentanyl from Canada to the US as the pretext for his trade actions. Earlier reports had indicated that only 43 lbs of fentanyl had been seized in 2024 by US officials at the Canada-US border (over 21,000 lbs were seized at the Mexican border). Updated statistics winkled out by the Globe and Mail show that in fact 555 lbs were seized at the northern border, or inland having crossed the border, but of this amount, only 0.74 lbs (i.e. less than a lb.) was of Canadian origin, or 0.13 % of the total. The rest was sourced from Mexico, the US itself (almost 30%) or from unknown sources. Facts matter, but apparently not in this case. The use of the IEEPA to impose tariffs on the rest of the world is equally specious, and almost certainly a violation of the legislation, as argued here and in more detail here. Tariffs are the prerogative of Congress to impose except in emergency situations but given the supine, badly divided and highly partisan nature of the current Congress, legislators seem unwilling or afraid to assert their rights and jurisdiction vis a vis the President.

Coming back to the National Trade Estimates (NTE), which until “Liberation Day” many of us assumed would form the basis for the calculation of “reciprocal” tariffs, they are still worth examining to understand which measures get under the skin of US business and the US government. Not all countries hit by the Trump tariffs were listed in the NTEs (the penguin islands did not get a listing), but many were (58 in all) for one policy or another that some interest group in the US objected to.

In Canada’s case, the US not unreasonably complained about Canada’s antiquated supply management system that gives dairy, egg and poultry producers a set-price closed shop paid for by Canadian consumers, and keeps out almost all imports. It also complained about provincial control of liquor distribution and marketing, although 17 US states have similar systems, restrictions on US seed exports, where seeds have to be registered with the Canadian Food Inspection Agency before they can be sold in Canada, and several other issues ranging from plastic waste regulations to the proposed Digital Services Tax. The US also objected to Quebec’s Bill 96 where some US businesses are concerned about the impact of the language law on their federally registered trademarks. But it is in the intellectual property (IP) and cultural industries areas where the complaints pile up.

In the IP area, the NTE draws on last year’s Special 301 (Watch List) Report on Canada, an annual USTR exercise that compiles the IP related “transgressions” of countries into a report that highlights US concerns. Among these with respect to Canada are enforcement against counterfeit goods and online piracy, inspection of goods in-transit, transparency with respect to new geographical indications (GIs), and the broad interpretation of the fair dealing exception for the purpose of education. The notorious Pacific Mall in Markham, about which I wrote way back in 2019, still gets USTR attention. According to USTR’s report “Noticeably counterfeit luxury goods, apparel, electronics, and automobile parts are reportedly on display or hidden under tables or in back rooms but are available upon request.” I did not have that experience when I last visited the place pre-COVID but maybe I didn’t look like a likely buyer so was not invited to look under the table.

As for measures taken by Canada to support cultural industries, both the Online Streaming Act and the Online News Act got mentioned as areas the US will continue to monitor closely. The whole USTR “name and shame” exercise is a bit hypocritical in my view and certainly one-sided since the US itself has a number of shortcomings of its own with respect to policies that limit compensation to creators or fail to adequately provide responses to IP theft, such as establishment of site-blocking (disabling access to offshore pirate websites). Last year I wrote a tongue-in-cheek Special 301 Report assessing how the US is doing. (The USTR “Watch List” Designation You Will Never See).

All these transgressions, and more which the Trump Administration could dream up, like the existence of Goods and Sales Tax (GST) in Canada or a Value Added Tax (VAT) in Europe, could have been used to determine “reciprocal” tariffs. But they weren’t, as we have seen. In Canada’s case it was not assessed tariffs additional to those that had already been imposed on the improbable pretext of fentanyl trafficking, and in the case of other countries, the NTE Report was set aside in favour of USTR’s “innovative” trade calculation formula.

What will happen next? That is anyone’s guess. Since I started writing this blogpost a couple of days ago, global stock markets have gone up and down like a yo-yo. Global tariffs that were to have been imposed at midnight on April 9 were suddenly suspended for 90 days–as a result of an impending meltdown in US bond markets–just hours before the deadline (except for a 10% toll on everyone). There were exceptions, the penguins, Canada and Mexico because of the USMCA, and China, which found itself with a combined tariff of something like 145% imposed on all Chinese goods coming to the US because it had not simply rolled over and accepted the US calculation of “reciprocity”.

If the first 80 days of Donald Trump’s Administration is anything to go by, it is going to be a wild ride that could well end up crashing the vehicle in which we are all passengers . The National Trade Estimates and reports like the USTR Special 301 (IP Watch List) will continue to be prepared and released but will be either ignored or used depending on the current whim in the White House. Some in Congress may eventually be inclined to stand up for their rights to control tariffs. Some US citizens may even go to court to challenge what the Administration is doing in defiance of the law, but all this will take time. In the meantime, don’t look at your stock portfolio, tighten your seatbelt and be prepared for whiplash. It’s Show-Time at the White House. Or is it Amateur Hour?

© Hugh Stephens, 2025. All Rights Reserved.

The Resilience of Independent Bookstores (My Visit to Livraria Lello, Porto)

Photo: Author

Much has been written about the decline or even the imminent demise of independent bookstores, yet most of them continue to survive, even thrive. In the same vein as the comment famously attributed to Mark Twain (“the reports of my death are greatly exaggerated”), so too have independent bookstores survived the onslaught of online shopping and mass merchandising. The Canadian Independent Booksellers Association has almost 200 members and there are an estimated 300 independent bookstores across the country. The US has around 2600. Some are well known, especially in the cities in which they are based, such as Powell’s Books in Portland, OR, City of Lights Books in San Francisco or Strand Books in NYC. In Canada, there is Munro’s in Victoria, BC, probably the most famous in the country.  Internationally there is Shakespeare and Company in Paris, Foyles or Daunts in London and Livraria Lello, the “Harry Potter” bookstore in Porto, Portugal.

Lello was the first destination for me and my wife last month when we visited that coastal city, the home of port wine. In fact, we went there even before touring the port “lodges” on the opposite bank of the Douro River, in Gaia. Lello has become a tourist destination in its own right, largely due to its association with JK Rowling and Harry Potter. When we arrived, there was a long queue outside and various roped off channels with identified time slots.

Photo: Author

Lello has discovered a whole new revenue stream, paid admission. We were tempted to walk on and find somewhere for lunch, but having come this far, I had to figure out how to get entry. It wasn’t that hard; you need to go online and book a slot, at a cost of €10 per person, redeemable against a book purchase. That is the basic (“silver”) option. Then there is the “gold” option at €15.95 that includes a book from their exclusive imprint, “The Collection”, or if you really want to splurge there is the “platinum” version at €50 per person. That will give you a voucher for book purchases, access to the “Gemma Room” and priority entry. “The Collection” is Lello’s offering of public domain classic imprints (Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain, Tolstoy, Saint-Exupery, JM Barrie, etc.) The “Gemma Room” is the space where Livraria Lello keeps its self-described “most precious jewels”, rare books, manuscripts, first editions, luxury books etc. How much you want to spend depends on how much of a book aficionado you are. We selected “silver” and after a short wait, were inside, all set to explore the wonders of Lello.

The ability to charge an entry fee to prospective customers who may not even buy a book or bookmark is an interesting additional revenue stream that many bookstores would die for. But it is not unreasonable when you consider that Lello is part bookstore, part museum. It has been charging for entry since 2015 and is now listed in all the guidebooks along with Porto’s other many attractions.

Photo: Author

It is truly spectacular and aptly deserves, in my view, the description of “world’s most beautiful bookstore”. As you can see from the photos, it has a Hogwarts like-atmosphere, and it is the tenuous connection with JK Rowling that has really put it on the map, even though its history goes back to 1906 in its present location. Rowling lived in Porto for almost two years (1991-93) and wrote the first three chapters of the first Potter book, the Sorcerer’s Stone while there. According to one account, she visited Lello in 1991, spent several hours there and bought a book. Surely she must have spent more time there than that, as she was an English teacher and Lello even in the 1990s was a well known entity. Lello has acknowledged the connection and has ensured there are plenty of Harry Potter books to buy.

Photo: Author

The history of Lello is a story worth telling quite aside from any modern Harry Potter connections. It traces its origins to other bookstores in the city, dating back to 1869. After several changes of ownership, the Lello brothers commissioned the design and building of the current structure, opening in 1906 in its present location on Rua das Carmelitas, a stone’s throw from Porto University. It was one of the first buildings in the city built with reinforced concrete and the iconic staircase is, in fact, cast from concrete although you would never know if from the rich wood finish. The ceiling is a stained glass window by a Dutch artist Samuel Van Krieken, featuring the motto “Decus in Labore” (Dignity in Work). The finishings are in painted plaster. The exterior façade is neo-Gothic.

Photo: Author

In addition to the bookstore itself, Lello supports the Livraria Lello Foundation, dedicated to the promotion of literacy. It has acquired the Monastery of Leca do Balio, located a few kilometers north of Porto, and has is developing it as a cultural centre.

The history and scale of the Lello operation is something that most independent bookstores can only dream of, but it illustrates well the contribution that these institutions make nationally, even internationally, as well as in their local communities. Independent bookstores add vitality and a window on the world. Often they are gathering places and host book circles, book readings and other literary activities. They have managed to carve out a niche in the market despite the omnipresence of Amazon and larger chain book outlets. Most don’t have the history or the cachet of Lello, but they are part of a proud fraternity. Long may they thrive.

© Hugh Stephens, 2025. All Rights Reserved

As you can plainly see, I am not a professional photographer. If you want a better view of Livraria Lello than I have provided with my cellphone snaps, click here.