Photo: Author
Much has been written about the decline or even the imminent demise of independent bookstores, yet most of them continue to survive, even thrive. In the same vein as the comment famously attributed to Mark Twain (“the reports of my death are greatly exaggerated”), so too have independent bookstores survived the onslaught of online shopping and mass merchandising. The Canadian Independent Booksellers Association has almost 200 members and there are an estimated 300 independent bookstores across the country. The US has around 2600. Some are well known, especially in the cities in which they are based, such as Powell’s Books in Portland, OR, City of Lights Books in San Francisco or Strand Books in NYC. In Canada, there is Munro’s in Victoria, BC, probably the most famous in the country. Internationally there is Shakespeare and Company in Paris, Foyles or Daunts in London and Livraria Lello, the “Harry Potter” bookstore in Porto, Portugal.
Lello was the first destination for me and my wife last month when we visited that coastal city, the home of port wine. In fact, we went there even before touring the port “lodges” on the opposite bank of the Douro River, in Gaia. Lello has become a tourist destination in its own right, largely due to its association with JK Rowling and Harry Potter. When we arrived, there was a long queue outside and various roped off channels with identified time slots.
Photo: Author
Lello has discovered a whole new revenue stream, paid admission. We were tempted to walk on and find somewhere for lunch, but having come this far, I had to figure out how to get entry. It wasn’t that hard; you need to go online and book a slot, at a cost of €10 per person, redeemable against a book purchase. That is the basic (“silver”) option. Then there is the “gold” option at €15.95 that includes a book from their exclusive imprint, “The Collection”, or if you really want to splurge there is the “platinum” version at €50 per person. That will give you a voucher for book purchases, access to the “Gemma Room” and priority entry. “The Collection” is Lello’s offering of public domain classic imprints (Oscar Wilde, Mark Twain, Tolstoy, Saint-Exupery, JM Barrie, etc.) The “Gemma Room” is the space where Livraria Lello keeps its self-described “most precious jewels”, rare books, manuscripts, first editions, luxury books etc. How much you want to spend depends on how much of a book aficionado you are. We selected “silver” and after a short wait, were inside, all set to explore the wonders of Lello.
The ability to charge an entry fee to prospective customers who may not even buy a book or bookmark is an interesting additional revenue stream that many bookstores would die for. But it is not unreasonable when you consider that Lello is part bookstore, part museum. It has been charging for entry since 2015 and is now listed in all the guidebooks along with Porto’s other many attractions.
Photo: Author
It is truly spectacular and aptly deserves, in my view, the description of “world’s most beautiful bookstore”. As you can see from the photos, it has a Hogwarts like-atmosphere, and it is the tenuous connection with JK Rowling that has really put it on the map, even though its history goes back to 1906 in its present location. Rowling lived in Porto for almost two years (1991-93) and wrote the first three chapters of the first Potter book, the Sorcerer’s Stone while there. According to one account, she visited Lello in 1991, spent several hours there and bought a book. Surely she must have spent more time there than that, as she was an English teacher and Lello even in the 1990s was a well known entity. Lello has acknowledged the connection and has ensured there are plenty of Harry Potter books to buy.
Photo: Author
The history of Lello is a story worth telling quite aside from any modern Harry Potter connections. It traces its origins to other bookstores in the city, dating back to 1869. After several changes of ownership, the Lello brothers commissioned the design and building of the current structure, opening in 1906 in its present location on Rua das Carmelitas, a stone’s throw from Porto University. It was one of the first buildings in the city built with reinforced concrete and the iconic staircase is, in fact, cast from concrete although you would never know if from the rich wood finish. The ceiling is a stained glass window by a Dutch artist Samuel Van Krieken, featuring the motto “Decus in Labore” (Dignity in Work). The finishings are in painted plaster. The exterior façade is neo-Gothic.
Photo: Author
In addition to the bookstore itself, Lello supports the Livraria Lello Foundation, dedicated to the promotion of literacy. It has acquired the Monastery of Leca do Balio, located a few kilometers north of Porto, and has is developing it as a cultural centre.
The history and scale of the Lello operation is something that most independent bookstores can only dream of, but it illustrates well the contribution that these institutions make nationally, even internationally, as well as in their local communities. Independent bookstores add vitality and a window on the world. Often they are gathering places and host book circles, book readings and other literary activities. They have managed to carve out a niche in the market despite the omnipresence of Amazon and larger chain book outlets. Most don’t have the history or the cachet of Lello, but they are part of a proud fraternity. Long may they thrive.
© Hugh Stephens, 2025. All Rights Reserved
As you can plainly see, I am not a professional photographer. If you want a better view of Livraria Lello than I have provided with my cellphone snaps, click here.
